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drewmorton
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xx scribe
« Thread started on: Mar 19th, 2010, 9:13pm »

Just wondering what everyone uses for a standard scribe width. I am planning my kitchen. and the end cabs will have an applied panel, so im thinking its best that I go with 3/4 inch scribe so the panel will sit flush with the face frames.

Anyway, just thought Id throw it out there and see what everyone uses.

thanks
Drew
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Rob
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xx Re: scribe
« Reply #1 on: Mar 20th, 2010, 3:09pm »

For cabinets that go up against a wall I like to use 1/2" scribe so I can fit them to the wall.

You may want to set the scribe to 13/16" and then trim it with a flush cutting router bit. I guess it depends on the finished thickness of the panels though.
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drewmorton
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xx Re: scribe
« Reply #2 on: Mar 21st, 2010, 2:20pm »

I like the idea of the flush cutting bit and router. Do you have a standard size that you like for the rails and stiles? Or does it vary depending on the cabinet style?
« Last Edit: Mar 21st, 2010, 2:32pm by drewmorton » User IP Logged

Rob
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xx Re: scribe
« Reply #3 on: Mar 21st, 2010, 7:49pm »

I just use a 1/2" straight bit with a bearing on the end.
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abu
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xx Re: scribe
« Reply #4 on: Mar 22nd, 2010, 08:09am »

I've been able to get away with as little as a quarter inch scribe.

I cut my stiles to 1 3/4 or 1 1/4 if the cabinets will butt against each other. With a 3/4 door overlay, this leaves a one inch reval all around. Rails are cut at 2 1/2 with the lower rail also at 1 3/4 again to create the one inch reveal.
Now of course this all depends on how much reveal is desired at which point adjustments would have to be made accordingly.

Hope this helps!
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trulycustom
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xx Re: scribe
« Reply #5 on: Mar 22nd, 2010, 08:53am »

I use a 1/4" scribe on each side of "inner" run cabinets that butt against each other. On end cabinets that butt a wall I use about 1/2" so I can draw a scribe line down than stile to match contour of wall. On end cabinets I use a 1/8" scribe and then trim off with flush cut router bit. In your case I would set the scribe to the panel depth plus about 1/8" and then flush trim off excess, sand smooth. I guess that is if you want a flush finished end. Most purchased cabinets with sides dadoed into face frame you would be left with a 3/16" to 1/4" scribe on the finished cabinet. Hope that helps.
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drewmorton
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xx Re: scribe
« Reply #6 on: Mar 22nd, 2010, 6:21pm »

Thanks guys. I know you guys are pros, and I am just doing this for enjoyment and satisfaction of doing it myself, so I appreciate your input. Im going to go with full inlay doors and drawers with a flat panel shaker style, so expanding on what Abu said, maybe I should go with 1 1/2 inch stiles, and 3 inch rails for the cabs that butt up against each other, that way it will be a consistent 3 inches all around. Maybe even 1 inch stiles and 2 inch rails for a consistent 2 inches around. And on the end cabs, have a 2 inch stile for room to attach the panel.

Honeslty, Im having fun thinking about it and changing the specs up. Thanks to Rob for creating this great program. I dont know what or how you are marketing this program, but as a hobbyest woodworker, I think its great, and you should try marketing it to the weekend woodworker. Ive already told freinds about it. It seems like alot of pros like it too.
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abu
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xx Re: scribe
« Reply #7 on: Mar 22nd, 2010, 10:59pm »

Drewmorton,
you pretty much summed it up by saying you're doing this for your enjoyment.

The beauty of doing the project yourself for yourself is that you can change the specs to whatever meets your needs.

Shops try to keep within a range of standards for production purposes. This way cabinets can be cut and assembled quickly without too much "head scratching" or changes.

Continue having fun with your project and keep asking questions. It's a great feeling of accomplishment knowing you did it yourself!
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