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Topic: Separate Toe Kick unit (Read 1093 times) |
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Rob
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Separate Toe Kick unit
« Thread started on: Sep 29th, 2013, 7:01pm » |
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Time to start adding a few more items to the program. The first will be separate toe kicks since there is a problem with using a Base Filler along with combined cabinets. Before I get too involved with adding something I need know how you build yours.
For sake of discussion:
You have a 48” run of cabinets that go wall to wall. What would your parts list be for this?
You have a 48” run of cabinets that is open on one side. What would your parts list be for this?
You have a 48” run of cabinets that is open on both sides. What would your parts list be for this?
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| « Last Edit: Oct 4th, 2013, 8:48pm by Rob » |
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trulycustom
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Re: Separate Toe Kick unit
« Reply #1 on: Sep 30th, 2013, 10:29am » |
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Rob,
I build most of my cabinets with separate toe kicks. Primarily because I am a one man shop with no CNC. It is much quicker for me to set the "base", level it and secure it to wall and floor and then set each cabinet on base, instead of level each individual cabinet.
I build them all the same way.
For a wall to wall run I would build a 47 1/2 x 21 (outside dims, a smidge shorter than 48 to account for out of square corner) "ladder base" and drop in cross members where each cabinet meets or where there are internal partions. I put in corner gussets at corners and that gives me a large area to secure the cabinet through the cabinet bottom if needed.
I pocket hole the ladder base so I can secure it to floor (once level), this method works on concrete floors as well.
For a run open on one end it would be the same except I would cut length short about 1.5" so end of cabinet would have toe kick but not as deep as front (just personal choice)
For a run open on both end, the same as above except 3" short and cabinets centered on base.
I hope this make sense.
I then wrap the 'ladder base' with finished toe kick panel.
Some things may change from job to job, such as if back wall is bowed I will double the back piece to have a wider area for cabinet to set on. It is pretty easy to customize the 'ladder base' to accommodate site specific issues such as height to accommodate central vacuum fixtures in toe kick, heat/cooling registers, etc.
I hope that helps.
Kent
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Rob
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Re: Separate Toe Kick unit
« Reply #2 on: Sep 30th, 2013, 11:17am » |
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Thanks Kent. I think I didn't word my request correctly.
For a 47 1/2 x 21 toe kick your parts sizes would be?
1 front ?? x??
1 back ?? x ??
1 left side ?? x ??
1 right side ?? x ??
?? middle supports ?? x ??
I will probably add a predefined setting for the max distance between supports. Then there would value for the number of supports in the editing window that the program can fill in.
For instance if you set it to a max of 20, any toekick between 20 & 40 would automatically be given 1 supports. One that is 55 would have two. And then if you think it needs more you can change it in the editing window.
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| « Last Edit: Sep 30th, 2013, 11:17am by Rob » |
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trulycustom
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Re: Separate Toe Kick unit
« Reply #3 on: Sep 30th, 2013, 3:11pm » |
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Rob,
No, you said parts list, I just didn't read!
It would look like this:
Full Run:
1 Back 4" x 47 1/2"
1 Front 4" x 47 1/2"
1 Left side 4" x 19 1/2"
1 Right side 4" x 19 1/2"
2 Middle supports 4" x 19 1/2"
Open One Side
1 Back 4" x 46 1/2"
1 Front 4" x 46 1/2"
1 Left side 4" x 19 1/2"
1 Right Side 4" x 19 1/2"
2 Middle Supports 4" x 19 1/2"
Open Both Sides
1 Back 4" x 45"
1 Front 4" x 45"
1 Left Side 4" x 19 1/2"
1 Right Side 4" x 19 1/2"
2 Middle Supports 4" x 19 1/2"
I always run the front and back pieces the full length of the toe kick, that way all the sides and middles are the same length, less thinking.
The height of the toe kick varied from job to job. Most big box stores have toe kicks minimum 4", usually taller.
As mentioned before the height would depend on what, if anything went in the toe kick area.
Thanks again for all the work.
Kent
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timberlinemd
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Re: Separate Toe Kick unit
« Reply #4 on: Oct 1st, 2013, 9:26pm » |
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I have always used separate toe kicks because you can get more yield from a sheet of material.
I skin the face after setting the cabinets with 1/4". The core material can be whatever.
The face is cut 1" shorter than the cabinet width. Height is determined by whatever floor covering is used. (4" as a standard, 4-1/2"-5" for some tile floors). The sleepers are 19-1/2" long and have a nailer attached to make a 'L' shape that can be attached to the bottom of the cabinet.
These can be placed in any location as to provide for wall to wall, or left/right returns. Skin them as needed.
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Rob
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Re: Separate Toe Kick unit
« Reply #5 on: Oct 2nd, 2013, 8:11pm » |
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For the 1/4" skins you apply, do you precut the lengths at the shop or to you cut them to fit on the job? (I would cut them on the job myself)
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timberlinemd
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Re: Separate Toe Kick unit
« Reply #6 on: Oct 3rd, 2013, 7:50pm » |
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Skins are cut to width (e.g. 4-1/2"), random lengths. Actually, I cut the widths 1/16" short to allow for easy installations.
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trulycustom
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Re: Separate Toe Kick unit
« Reply #7 on: Oct 4th, 2013, 5:40pm » |
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I cut on the job. I 45 degree bevel cut each outside corner piece of the 'skin' material and you have a very nice toe kick corner, no raw edge that you have to touch up, quick and easy.
I cut the width short as well to allow for uneven floor, etc.
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Rob
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Re: Separate Toe Kick unit
« Reply #8 on: Oct 4th, 2013, 8:45pm » |
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Here is a first attempt.
There is a 'separate toe kick height' setting in the Base Standards as well as the existing toe kick depth setting. It uses your standard base cabinet depth minus your 'toe kick cutout depth' to preset the depth.
I still need to add pricing for it. It seems to me this should work pretty well. You can even add custom trim to them if needed.
I don't, and probably won't, have them added to the floor plan view as they would clutter them up.
Edit:
Link removed, this has now been added to the program.
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| « Last Edit: Oct 11th, 2013, 10:15pm by Rob » |
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